Hoi An is genuinely beautiful. It’s also genuinely overrun with tourists.
Both things are true at the same time, and you just have to accept that before you go.
The Ancient Town is worth seeing, but it’s not somewhere you need to spend days wandering around endlessly. Buy your ticket, explore it properly once, then give yourself permission to move on.
Because for me, the real magic of Hoi An isn’t just the old town. It’s everything around it.
Getting out of the centre is where it gets good
Rent a bicycle for about £1.50 a day and cycle out towards An Bang Beach or Cua Dai.
The roads are flat, the scenery opens up quickly, and within 10–15 minutes you’ve left most of the crowds behind.
That’s when Hoi An actually starts to feel like a place rather than a tourist loop.
Quiet villages. Rice fields. Local life happening at its own pace.
It’s easily the best way to see it.
Tailors, clothes, and managing expectations
Hoi An is famous for tailoring and it’s one of those things everyone ends up checking out.
It’s worth it, but only if you manage your expectations, and you can actually get it sent home. I don’t know many western backpackers walking around in a 3 piece suit in a humid 30°C country (please, seek help if you are).
Give yourself time (at least 2–3 days), be specific about what you want, and don’t just go for the cheapest option you can find. A well-made linen shirt or trousers for £15–£20 can be great value.
A rushed £5 suit that falls apart later isn’t (I doubt you’ll cry over a few quid though).
Simple as that.
The food is genuinely one of the highlights
The food in Hoi An is excellent.
Cao Lau is the one you have to try. It’s a local noodle dish that’s supposedly only made properly here because of the water used in the recipe.
White Rose dumplings are also worth ordering while you’re there.
You’ll find both in small local spots if you step away from the main tourist streets, usually at a fraction of the price.
And it’s always better like that anyway.
Evenings by the river
One of the best parts of Hoi An is just sitting by the river in the evening.
A cold Bia Hoi in hand (local draught beer for about 20p a glass), lanterns reflecting on the water, and the whole town glowing in a slightly chaotic but calm way.
It’s one of those travel moments that sticks with you.
Just don’t expect it to feel empty. It won’t. But that’s part of it.
My Christmases in Hoi An
I actually ended up spending two Christmases here, which wasn’t planned at all.
The first one surprised me.
The streets had lights up, the weather was grey and rainy, and weirdly it felt a bit like home during that time of year. That slightly gloomy, cosy Christmas atmosphere you get in the UK. I didn’t expect to miss that feeling, but I did.
One year, me and a friend even found a pub doing a full roast dinner. It wasn’t traditional Vietnam, obviously, but around Christmas I think you’re allowed to cheat a bit.
You should always try the local food when you travel, especially things like Banh Mi, but there’s nothing wrong with a roast when it’s Christmas.
Another year I stayed at Mad Monkey Hoi An Hostel, and they went all in for Christmas. Proper effort. Decorations, food, social vibe, the whole thing. If you’re travelling solo over the holidays, it’s actually a really good place to be.
In general, I mostly just slowed things down during Christmas here. Long walks by the river, soaking up the atmosphere, and enjoying a quieter version of the town.
And honestly, I kind of miss it around that time of year.
Final thoughts
Hoi An is one of those places that looks like a postcard, but you only really enjoy it once you accept it isn’t going to be peaceful or untouched.
Go for the Ancient Town, stay for the cycling routes, food, and slower moments outside the centre.
And if you end up there at Christmas, don’t be surprised if it feels a bit different from what you expected.
In a good way.
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